Michael Schunke: Skull Lidded-Goblet

Part 1: The Skull.

Michael and his partner Josie Gluck operate Vetro Vero studios out of an old dairy in souther Pennsylvania. For this goblet, the team have chosen to prepare a batch of bright blue glass for their color furnace. The entire skull is made out of blue glass, and then coated with a thin layer of clear glass powder, which takes a bit of the shine away from the glass (like when you apply foundation to your skin, or powder your nose).

Watch Parts 2 & 3 as well!


Bullseye Quick Tip: Smooth Kiln Wash


Create a smooth, uniform surface on the shelf side of your fired work—not a brush stroke in sight!

First, prepare a kilnshelf with Bullseye Shelf Primer. Follow the instructions in our free video Preparing Kiln Shelves to prime and dry the shelf.

Once the shelf has cooled, gently buff the surface with a sheet of standard copy paper.

Tip the shelf upright with the primer side away from you and tap it lightly against a hard surface to knock off the loosened primer (to ease cleanup, tap the shelf onto a piece of butcher paper). Ideally, this will be done with local ventilation, wearing a NIOSH approved respirator.

Note: The buffed surface is delicate. Avoid sliding pieces of sheet glass across it, as primer can collect in the seams.

This technique is ideal for works with a single base sheet or minimal seams. We’re especially fond of the effect on iridized glass, though it’s equally effective on non-iridized opals & transparents.

See Original Bullseye Post here.

Preparing Kiln Shelves

Revised April 16, 2018.

Silicone Mould Making: Video

Basic mould making technique for silicone moulds using basic Silicone I* caulking (available at your local hardware store). Tips:

  1. Cool, Soapy Water
  2. 2 Buckets (1 for hands, 1 for silicone).
  3. BE GENTLE! (If ANY of the silicone starts to stick to your hands, STOP and clean off. silicone sticks to silicone, so it will continue to build up and eventually make a giant mess!)
  4. Collect and Shape the Silicone noodles UNDER WATER.
  5. Be sure your hands and pattern remain cool, wet and soapy.

*Note: Do NOT use Silicone II. It will not cure!